(REKLAME) Da jeg forleden erfarede, at mine yndlings-yogabukser fra Run & Relax er så gennemsigtige, at man nærmest kan se min livmoder, besluttede jeg, at det nok var bedst for alle, hvis jeg anskaffede mig et par nye. Kravene var, at de skulle være bæredygtige og ikke være gennemsigtige.
3 yogabutikker på Østerbro og ca. 85 par prøvede yogabukser senere, kom jeg hjem med 2 par…fra H&M…som uden tvivl er lavet af et 8-årigt barn med blødende hænder i Bangladesh.
Jeg prøvede! Men hold nu op. ‘Bæredygtighed’ er jo et VIDT begreb, og jeg gav fuldstændig fortabt undervejs på at finde ud af, hvilke mærker jeg kan stole på, og hvilke mærker der er fløjtende ligeglade med bæredygtighed.
Men nu har jeg sat mig for at finde hoved og hale i det. For det er enormt vigtigt, at vi er bevidste om hvad det er vi støtter, når vi langer penge over disken. Næstefter olie er tøjproduktion det, der forurener mest. Så det ér bare ikke godt nok bevidstløst at lægge 300 kroner i en tilfældig butik uden at vide, hvad det er vi køber. Vi skal støtte gode virksomheder, der gør sig umage for at passe på vores planet, og som behandler mennesker ordentligt.
Der er afsindigt mange faktorer, der kan afgøre, om en tøjproduktion er bæredygtig eller ej. Og selvom virksomheder måske gør tiltag i den ene ende af skalaen, som trækker dem hen i den bæredygtige ende, kan andre metoder under deres produktion trække den anden vej. Ingen af os har tid eller energi til at lave så grundig research på forskellige virksomheder og mærker, at vi som forbrugere kan lave regnestykket færdigt, og jeg er selvfølgelig på ingen måde ekspert. Herunder har jeg listet nogle af de grundprincipper, jeg selv orienterer mig efter, når jeg forsøger at købe mere bæredygtigt tøj.
0) Køb mindre: Helt overordnet set, er det mest bæredygtige du kan gøre selvfølgelig at købe mindre, bruge det du har i lang tid, og passe godt på dit tøj ved at vaske det mindre og mere skånsomt. Ved at mindske dit forbrug gør du planeten en kæmpe tjeneste, så det bør altid være din nummer 1.
1) Materialerne: En klassiker er økologisk bomuld, som nogle mener, at økologisk bomuld forbruger mindre vand, mens andre mener det stik modsatte. Til gengæld dyrkes bomulden uden skadelige pesticider, og det er jo i det mindste positivt. Men der også andre materialer, som er bæredygtige, for eksempel Tencel (kaldes også Lycocell), der er et restprodukt fra træer, og så er der hemp og bambus, som også er bæredygtige materialer. Det kan også være en hjælp at holde øje med de mange forskellige kategoriseringen inden for økologi, som for eksempel GOTS og OEKO-TEX, der garanterer forbrugere, at produktet er økologisk og at produktionen er uden skadelige kemikalier. Så gå efter bæredygtige materialer og orienter dig efter certificeringerne.
2) Arbejdsforholdene: Det kan være svært at gennemskue, om tøjet er produceret under ordentlige forhold, men en meget klar rettesnor er, hvis tøjet er Fairtrade-mærket. Men selvom tøjet ikke har det mærke, kan der sagtens være gode arbejdsforhold på de fabrikker, hvor det er produceret. Noget du kan kigge efter er, om tøjet er produceret i et land, med strenge regler omkring arbejdsforhold, eller du kan simpelthen spørge producenten, under hvilke forhold tøjet er produceret. Hvis virksomheden har forhold sig til, hvordan deres tøj produceres, kan du bande på, at de vil skrive om det på deres hjemmeside.
Der er selvfølgelig mange flere detaljer, som man kan gå ind i, når det handler om bæredygtig mode, men hvis du holder fokus på disse to, så kommer du rigtig langt med at støtte en bæredygtig tøjproduktion.
Nedenfor har jeg samlet en række mærker, som jeg synes er værd at støtte, fordi de på på hver sin måde producerer bæredygtigt yogatøj.
DANSKERNE
O9DK
O9 et nyt brand på det danske marked, der som nogle af de få formår at skabe bæredygtigt tøj, som ikke koster det hvide ud af øjnene. Kristina og Lilias tøj består primært af bambus, og så har de fundet på noget helt genialt; de kontakter tekstilfabrikker rundt omkring i verden og ‘redder’ og upcycler materiale og tekstilrester, der ellers ville være blevet kørt på forbrændingen. Holdet bag O9 ved altså aldrig, hvordan den næste kollektion kommer til at se ud, for det afhænger af, hvad de kan redde og genanvende hos fabrikkerne. Ret fascinerende, og en helt ny måde at tænke design på. Deres tøj et let og blødt, der er spræl på farverne, og så er det som sagt i en prisklasse, hvor ALLE kan være med. Jeg har fået noget tøj forærende at Kristina og Lilia, og er især kæmpe fan af deres bambus yoga-BH, der er blevet min nye yndlings yogatop!
The Baand
Det danske mærke The Baand laver yogatøj i økologisk bomuld, som er laves hos en lillebitte producent i Peru. De to danske kvinder, som står bag, går op i, at der er gode forhold både for bønderne på bomuldsmarkerne og hos deres producent. Deres tøj er helt enkelt i designet og meget indbydende, og så er priserne ganske rimelige.
Moonchild Yoga Wear
Endnu et dansk mærke, hvor der er fuld skrald på farver og mønstre. Deres tøj produceres her i Europa, og deres tekstiler bærer mærket OECO-TEX, hvilket betyder at materialerne ikke indeholder nogen skadelige stoffer. Selve printet laves i Danmark , og selvom processen indeholder en del farver, er den også i overensstemmelse med OECO-TEX’s regler. Derudover generer processen ingen vandspild. Moonchilds yogatøj er skønt og skørt, og jeg har ikke oplevet at deres bukser er gennemsigtige, men priserne er desværre ‘godt derop af’, som vi siger i Jylland.
Stræk og Bøj
Hos den afsindigt yndige butik Stræk og Bøj, som både forhandler ballettøj og yogatøj, kan du finde alt til din indre prinsesse, og en smule til din indre klimaforkæmper. De sælger nemlig yogaheldragter, -bukser og bluser i økologisk bomuld fra Stræk og Bøjs eget mærke. Tøjet produceres hos Intermezzo på deres fabrik i Spanien, og er GOTS-certificeret, ligesom syerskerne er uddannede og arbejder under ordentlige forhold. Louise hos Stræk og Bøj fortæller i øvrigt, at de kun køber tøj produceret i Europa, netop af hensyn til miljøet. Her er priserne i øvrigt meget rimelige, og du kan få en heldragt med hjem for under 500 kroner.
Yogamii
Et forholdvis nyt dansk mærke, der skaber bæredygtigt yogatøj til mænd og kvinder. Tøjet er GOTS certificeret, hvilket er en garanti for en miljømæssigt og socialt ansvarlig produktion gennem hele forsyningskæden. Der er altså både fokus på økologiske materialer samt en bæredygtig og ansvarlig produktion. Og så er prislejet helt i orden.
ET PAR UDLÆNDINGE
Wellicious
Et engelsk mærke, som produceres i EU, og som laver tøj i alle mulige bæredygtige materialer. Deres ret store kollektion af yogatøj er 90% økologisk, og du kan læse meget mere om de forskellige materialer her. Her er vi i den lidt dyre ende, i hvert fald ud fra min målestok. 6-800 kroner for et par bomuldsbukser ér bare mere, end jeg personlig er villig til at punge ud med.
ALAS
ALAS er et farverigt og mega nuttet mærke, som jeg har opdaget gennem My Fair Shop. Alle deres produkter produceres på to fabrikker i Indien, under gode arbejdsforhold. Ved indfarvningen bruges der metoder, så tungmetaller, formaldehyd og azo-farver undgås, og al vandet, som bruges til indfarvningen, renses efterfølgende, så det kan bruges på de omkringliggende marker uden at skade miljøet. Og så er al deres emballage, plastik såvel som prismærker, lavet af genanvendelige materialer. Fordi mærket er australsk er fragten ret pebret, men ellers kan du holde øje med danske forhandlere, som for eksemepl My Fair Shop eller svenske EcoSphere.
People Tree
Engelske People Tree laver smart yogatøj i økologisk bomuld, som også er Fairtrade-certificeret. De er engagerede i at bevare de forskellige håndværk, der er nødvendige for at lave tøj, i stedet for at erstatte processerne med maskiner. For dem, er det en måde at sikre, at deres arbejdere har et håndværk, som de kan bruge til at tjene penge. Derfor tilføjer de så vidt muligt bevidst håndlavede features til deres design. De har en meget grundigt udarbejdet etik-sektion, som klart er værd at læse.
PRANA
Måske ikke så kendt i Danmark, men i USA er Prana et stort mærke, som gør meget for miljøet. De producerer i bæredygtige og økologiske materialer, deres emballage er genanvendelig, de arbejder med Fair Trade Certificerede producenter og så samarbejder de løbende med forskellige velgørenhedsorganisationer, for at ‘give tilbage’, som de skriver. Igen er fragten pebret, fordi vi er langt væk, men det kan være, du kan tjekke en af deres butikker ud, hvis du på et tidspunkt skal til USA.
Thought
Dette engelske mærke laver al mulig tøj, men også yogaleggings, i en bred vifte af bæredygtige og økologiske materialer. De holder deres produktion på ét sted, for at mindske deres ‘carbon foot print’, og så er deres yogatøj simpelthen knaldhamrende billigt. Det ændrer heldigvis ikke på, at det produceres etisk og med omtanke på arbejdernes forhold og løn.
Armed Angels
Jeg faldt over det tyske mærke Armed Angels i min yndlings Københavner-butik ResRes, som udelukkende sælger bæredygtige ting. Og Armed Angels er i den grad bæredygtigt. De bruger bæredygtige og økologiske materialer, og er en del af Fair Wear Foundation, der sikrer gode forhold for producenterne. Deres yogatøj er af den jordfarvede slags, og ser ultra behageligt ud.
Moonchilds tights er desværre gennemsigtige – har jeg erfaret hos mig selv og hos en af mine yogier 😉 :-0
Ah men for hulen. Det var dog irriterende. Har du nogle erfaringer med gode ikke-gennemsigtige tights? Please do share 🙂
Ved ikke om de er bæredygtige eller ej, men jeg har vildt mange par fra k-deer og de er FANTASTISKE!!
Ah men de laver så meget pænt tøj, men lige det med bæredygtigheden har de tilsyneladende ikke så meget fokus på. Øv!
Øko bomuld bruger mindre vand end ikke øko?? ikke helt https://qz.com/990178/your-organic-cotton-t-shirt-might-be-worse-for-the-environment-than-regular-cotton/
Hej Camilla, tusind tak for din kommentar og for linket til artiklen. Det er rigtig spændende læsning, og modsiger det, jeg har læst mig frem til. Derfor har jeg inkluderet linket i blogindlægget, så andre også kan læse informationen 🙂 Vi bliver hele tiden klogere på, hvad der er op og ned i bæredygtig produktion, så tak for den her.
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